Why should I buy
a brick home?
Nothing else can
match the classic beauty and elegance of a brick home. Building with brick says,
"You have arrived." But there's more to brick than just looks. Brick offers
lasting value. It can enhance the resale value of your home by as much as 6
percent. Brick is virtually maintenance free. It doesn't rot, dent, or need to
be painted and it won't be eaten by termites. Brick is also energy efficient,
keeping you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. In short, brick offers
you a combination of advantages not found in any other siding material. The
world's most beautiful and most practical homes are built with brick.
Is brick
that much more expensive than other siding materials?
Brick costs more
than some other commonly used siding materials because brick is a premium
product, but it's not nearly as expensive as you might think. In many parts of
the country, a new brick home will cost you only a small percentage more than a
comparable vinyl-sided home. Other products, such as artificial stucco, cost
about the same as brick, but are far less durable and require much greater
maintenance and upkeep.
What kind
of maintenance does a brick home require?
A brick home is
virtually maintenance free. Brick is one of the oldest building materials in the
world, and one of the reasons it's still so popular is brick's ease of upkeep.
Brick never needs painting, never rots, will never be eaten by termites and will
never dent or tear. Brick homes built hundreds of years ago still stand today.
Is brick
energy efficient?
Brick is a
building material that has exceptional "thermal mass " properties. Thermal mass
is the ability of a heavy, dense material to store heat and then slowly release
it. For you, this means that during the summer months your brick home stays cool
during the
hottest part of the day.
During the winter, brick walls store your home's heat and radiate it back to
you. Vinyl, aluminum, wood are all thin, light
building materials that don't have good thermal mass properties. The superior
thermal mass qualities of brick have been known for centuries. Most notably, the
Pueblo Indians in the Southwest used adobe masonry to moderate weather extremes
and keep their homes comfortable.
How does
brick impact my home
insurance costs?
A brick home
is fire resistant, pest resistant and weather resistant. Brick is such a strong
and durable building material that your
insurance companies
even offers you a discount on your home insurance costs. Check with your agent
for more details.
Do brick
homes have a better resale value?
Take a look through
this Sunday's real estate section of your local newspaper and read the home
listings. Notice how people always list brick as a primary selling point.
Brick's beauty and practicality are always a plus when you resell. On average, a
brick exterior adds 6% to the resale value of your home.
Are there
many color options available with brick?
Brick is an
all-natural building material that is made from a mix of clay and water that is
then baked, or "fired," in a kiln until hardened. Different clays produce
different colors, and there are many different types of clays. In addition,
various natural coatings, such as sand and limestone, can also be added during
the firing process to produce different colors, effects, textures and finishes.
Even a brick's position in the kiln can affect the final look. When you combine
these with the tonal varieties of today's mortars, you can see that your color
choices in brick are virtually endless.
Where can
I find out about my color options in brick?
Visit a brick
showroom near you to review your options. You'll have the chance to review
hundreds of brick and mortar combinations. To locate a showroom, check your
local Yellow Pages under "Brick."
Does brick
allow me to personalize the look of my home?
Brick is not a
one-dimensional product like stucco or siding. Brick allows you to personalize
the look of your home with elegant detailing, such as arches and quoins,
different bond patterns and special shapes. Brick expresses your personality and
style like no other building product can.
How can I
remove paint from my brickwork?
As always, the wall should be thoroughly saturated with
water before and after any cleaning application. Also, a small inconspicuous
area of wall should be tested to confirm that any solutions used will not harm
the brick.
Freshly applied paint can be removed with a solution of
trisodium phosphate mixed with water at a rate of 2 lb. per gallon of water.
Apply the solution to the brick; allow it to soften paint; and remove with
scraper and stiff bristle brush. Manufactured chemicals are also available from
your local hardware store to remove fresh paint.
Existing paint which has been in place for some time is
more difficult to remove and may require using abrasive techniques with
non-steel scrapers or sandblasting by a professional. Certain brick should not
be sandblasted. Specific chemical compounds from your local hardware store in
the form of a gel solvent may be necessary to soften existing paint. More than
one application may be necessary depending on the number of paint layers.
Should I paint my brick wall?
A brick wall may be painted provided the correct
preparation is done, the proper paint is selected, and the paint is applied
correctly. Generally, new brick walls are not painted. However, if you desire to
paint a recently constructed brick wall, it should be allowed to fully cure 28
days and should not be cleaned or treated with acid solutions. Alkali-resistant
paints should be used and a zinc chloride or zinc sulfate
solution may need to be applied to the wall to neutralize the surface.
Painting brick does not preclude good construction and
detailing practices. Any deficiencies such as surface deposits; broken brick;
cracked, loose or missing mortar; or inadequate flashing and weep holes should
be corrected prior to painting. In addition, the brick should be thoroughly
cleaned and given ample time to dry before application of paint. See Technical
Notes 7F and 20 for more information.
For brickwork to function properly, the wall must
resist moisture penetration and be permeable to vapor from the structure.
Consequently, any paint applied to the wall must also have these same
characteristics. In addition, the inherent features of a brick wall which
channel water out, such as weep holes and vents, must not be clogged by paint or
caulk to inhibit the flow of water.
Latex and portland cement-based paints perform well on
brick walls. Oil-based, alkyd, rubber and epoxy paints do not allow any vapor in
the wall to escape and consequently should not be applied to brick. Prior to
painting, the brick should receive a prime coat suitable for the paint
application per manufacturer's instructions.
Should I apply a water repellent to my brick wall?
Generally, water repellents are only an interim
solution to any water penetrating a brick wall since they loose their ability to
repel water after 1 to 10 years. However, in cases where all other options have
been exhausted, it may be considered as long as one is aware of the inherent
nature of water repellents.
There are basically two types of water repellents:
films and penetrants.
Films such as acrylics, stearates, mineral gum waxes, urethanes and silicone
resins form a thin membrane over the brick. Penetrants such as silanes,
siloxanes and blends actually penetrate the brick surface. Films are good at
repelling water but poor at permitting water vapor transmission which allows the
wall to breathe. Penetrants, on the other hand, are good at both. They will
usually have a matte finish while films may produce a higher sheen. Penetrants
are more acceptable since they allow any water present in the brick to exit the
wall. However, penetrants will not provide graffiti-resistance to a wall while
some films will.
Application of a water repellent does not negate proper
brick construction and detailing procedures. Any deficiencies in a brick wall
such as inadequate flashing, weep holes, mortar joints or broken brick should be
corrected prior to the application of a water repellent. The wall should also be
cleaned and allowed to thoroughly dry before administering a water repellent.
How can I remove stains from my brickwork?
Most stains and discoloration can be removed from
brickwork if the proper cleaning technique is employed. There are essentially
two categories of stains; those which are externally applied to the wall and
those which originate from within the wall. Those which come from within a wall
may need additional investigation to prevent the stain from returning.
As always, it is important to thoroughly saturate a
brick wall before application of any cleaning solution. As a general rule,
acidic cleaning solutions should only be applied to red brick with no surface
finish such as sand. Also, an inconspicuous area of the wall should be tested
with any cleaning solution for compatibility prior to application on the entire
wall. Any cleaning solutions should be thoroughly rinsed from the wall.
Most stains can be dealt with by thoroughly washing the
wall with a common household or kitchen cleanser dissolved in water and applied
to the wall with a stiff bristle brush. If this is ineffective, a poultice which
dissolves the stain and pulls it into an inert material may be necessary. The
inert material can be talc, whiting or fuller's earth available from your local
hardware store while the solvent will vary based on the type of stain. There are
also several manufactures which produce chemical compounds to remove stains.
Your local brick or masonry supplier should be consulted for specific advice.
Sandblasting and pressure washing brickwork can also be
options for certain brick when especially stubborn mortar or externally applied
stains are involved. Bricks with coatings such as sand or slurry finishes should
not be cleaned in this manner. Sandblasting and pressure washing should usually
only be undertaken by a competent professional with experience. If improperly
executed, either of these methods can permanently damage the brick.
Can water penetrate my brickwork?
Homes have been built for hundreds of years with the
knowledge that brickwork is not impervious to water. Water can migrate into
brickwork. Brickwork handles this moisture by either having a cavity or air
space between itself and the wall behind it (drainage wall) or by being so thick
that it acts as a barrier to the water.
For a drainage wall, water
travels down the backside
of the brick in the air space and is then channeled out with flashing (metal or
plastic sheet) sloped toward the face of the wall and weep holes (small openings
or tubes) spaced every few brick at the mortar joints. These flashing and weep
holes should be located above all doors and windows, below all window sills, and
above the ground at the base of the wall. In a barrier wall, the mass of the
brickwork keeps the interior of the wall dry by allowing water to evaporate
before proceeding all the way through the wall. Only under prolonged exposure to
sustained moisture or rain will a barrier wall exhibit moisture on the interior.
When this occurs, the moisture then drains down the back of the wall into
flashing at the base which channels it out through weep holes.
The overwhelming majority of brickwork is properly
detailed and constructed, experiencing no moisture problems. In the few
instances where moisture is a problem, it can be attributed to poor construction
or detailing in the brickwork. It is important to maintain a clean space behind
the brick in drainage walls. Full contact between mortar and bricks and proper
installation of flashing and weep holes are also important to ensure the highest
water penetration resistance. Applying and maintaining silicone caulk around
window and door openings also plays a vital role in keeping moisture out.
Can I
change my brick's color once it is in a wall?
A brick's color can be attributed to its clay
composition, any added compounds, its firing temperature and any surface
treatments. Because brick is composed of naturally occurring materials, all
brick will not necessarily be exactly the same. For this reason, some brick may
be of a slightly different color than others in a given batch. Usually, this
adds character to a wall, but occasionally it is desired to blend these brick
with other brick in the wall. This can be done by individually staining the
brick in question.
Staining is a common practice and is usually done by a
professional with expertise in its application. The stain itself is a
proprietary product made specifically for brick. A local brick supplier in your
Yellow Pages should be consulted for a product and professional applicator.
Since the surrounding mortar joints must be masked, it is a time consuming
process and is usually only done when a limited number of brick are involved. If
staining is done properly, it should have no detrimental effect on the bricks
and should provide a long lasting finish.
Can I add brick to my existing home?
Brick can be added to an existing home. This can be
done by adding a nominal three- or four-inch thick brick in front of the wall
and supporting it by either the existing footing or on an angle fastened to the
existing concrete or block foundation wall. It is important to properly detail
the wall by providing flashing and weep holes at all points of support. The area
beneath the angle at or below the ground level should have gravel at least
six-inches deep to provide good drainage. The brick should also have at least a
one-inch air space between itself and the existing siding. Building paper should
cover the existing siding unless it is already provided behind the existing
siding. Corrosion-resistant metal anchors should tie the brick to the studs in
the existing wall. The joint between the brickwork and all doors and windows
should be closed with silicone caulk. Insulation may also be added to increase
the total thermal value of the wall.
Another alternative is to use thin brick in panels and
attach them directly to wall studs. This may mean removing the existing siding
in order to attach the thin brick. Insulation may also be added if desired.
Can I install brick over my existing concrete or
asphalt driveway, patio or walk?
Paving can be installed over existing concrete or
asphalt as long as it is in reasonably good shape. To ensure an adequate
foundation for the brick, the existing concrete slab or asphalt should be
inspected and repaired as necessary. Any cracks, chips, holes, dips or spalls
should be repaired in order to achieve a flat surface.
The brick can be installed either with or without
mortar. If no mortar is used, a half-inch setting bed of coarse sand should be
laid and compacted. An edging of metal or heavy-duty plastic should then be
placed around the perimeter of the brickwork and set to just below the height of
the finished brick surface. Pavers can then be placed in the desired pattern on
top of the sand. The bricks should be placed as close to each other as possible.
It may be necessary to cut some of the brick near the edging. Once the brick are
all in place, install mason's sand between the brick and over the surface. Sweep
away excess surface sand and your brick is ready to enjoy.
If mortar is used, you may consider hiring a mason for
the job. If you do the job yourself, the concrete slab should be prepared in the
same manner as above. A half-inch mortar setting bed should then be applied upon
which the bricks are set with mortar placed between the pavers. Only a small
area should receive the setting bed at a time in order to ensure that it does
not set prior to laying the brick. Mortared brickwork should not be laid on
asphalt.
How can I construct a new brick driveway, patio or
walk myself?
A new brick pavement can be constructed on asphalt,
concrete, or compacted gravel as a base. For asphalt and concrete bases, the
base material should be installed according to standard construction procedure
and then the brick can be constructed on top. (See previous question.)
For a compacted gravel base, the earth below should be
well compacted. All brick pavements should have the earth graded to a minimum
slope of quarter-inch per foot for drainage. Then four-inches of gravel,
followed by a layer of geotextile material, if desired, and a one-inch coarse
sand setting bed screeded with a 2x4 should be laid. An edging of heavy plastic
or metal should be installed at the perimeter of the brick. The brick should
then be laid together tightly on top of the sand and cut as needed at the
edging. Mason's sand should then be spread on the top and in between the brick
and consolidated with a plate compactor if necessary. Mason's sand should be
added until all the joints are filled and excess sand should be removed.
For heavier use pavements such as driveways, a six to
eight-inch gravel base should be installed and compacted with a plate compactor.
Then a geotextile material should be installed and a one-inch setting bed of
coarse sand laid. Placing edging, brick and mason's sand between the joints
should then proceed as outlined above.
Adequate preparation of the earth before installation
and consolidation of the entire assembly after installation with a plate
compactor are essential to a well-constructed brick pavement.
Can ivy or other plants growing on my brick damage
it?
To answer this question, you need to understand the
consequences of leaving or removing plant growth. This growth on brick can
potentially damage it by forcing root tendrils into the mortar joints. Moisture
can then find its way into the wall and freeze-thaw action or other moisture
related events can occur resulting in damage. However, ivy also sheds rainwater
and reduces the surface temperature of the wall. Properly constructed walls with
good workmanship and well-tooled joints can also resist tendril intrusion better
than poorly constructed walls.
When existing plant growth is removed from a brick
wall, it may also remove part of the mortar from the joint. This could result in
the wall having to be repointed by removing any broken mortar and repacking with
new. Further, complete removal of the tendrils is difficult. Failure to do so
may result in stains on the wall.
Therefore, it is an evaluation which is best made by
the owners taking these as well as the aesthetic and economic considerations
into account. While plant growth can shorten the life of brickwork, a
well-constructed wall should still last for many decades.
Are cracks in my brickwork acceptable?
New homes properly detailed and constructed of brick
should have no cracks in the brickwork. In the unlikely event that a crack is
observed, it is usually not structurally significant. Such a crack is easily
repaired and will rarely recur. It should be corrected by removing and replacing
any cracked brick and repointing (removing and replacing unsound mortar).
In older homes, cracks in brick are sometimes observed.
Most of these cracks are not structurally significant to a home's structure -
especially if the brickwork is a veneer over a structural frame. In general,
these cracks occur where the wall is overstressed. By cracking, the stress in
the wall is dissipated.
Cracks can be divided into two categories: passive
(which are not increasing in width or length) and active (which are increasing
in width and/or length). Determining which category a crack is in can be
difficult and may require careful observation over an extended period of time
and/or a structural engineer.
Generally, cracks which are passive can be repaired and
will not return. A passive crack in brickwork can be repaired by removing and
replacing any cracked brick. Cracked mortar between bricks should also be
repointed by carefully removing and replacing any unsound mortar. Mortar used in
repointing should be similar in strength and type to the original mortar.
Repairs made to cracks which are active, however, may
again become overstressed and cause the crack to recur. Consequently, before
repairing an active crack, it is important to determine and alleviate the cause
of the overstress. However, diagnosing the specific cause of a crack can be
difficult since several factors might have contributed to its formation. It is
therefore recommended that a structural engineer evaluate and make
recommendations for correcting the causes of such cracks. Your local Yellow
Pages should assist you in finding such an engineer. Once these corrections are
made, the active crack can be reclassified as passive and repairs to the
brickwork can proceed.
Active cracks may also be closed by installing a backer
rod and sealant. It may be necessary to widen the crack to receive the backer
rod. Of course, if an active crack is repaired in this manner without correcting
its cause, the crack may continue to increase in length and width.
